S & S way of sewing swimsuits

School will be starting in 2 weeks and yes, I am still sewing swimsuits! 

There's a need since we still have at least another month of beach going weather  and plans for swim lessons through the winter.   I've got the sewing process down pat and can whip out a swimsuit in about 1 1/2 hours or less depending on how much elastic needs to be applied.  My current favorite patterns are Kwik Sew 3785 and Ottobre Design 03/09 #38.

I wasn't so sure about the center seam along the back of Kwik Sew 3785 but my girls really wanted a racer back style swimsuit.  I've been impressed with how well they fit and no one has complained about the seam bothering them.

KS 3785, size Large

KS 3785, size XS

For K's suit, I added an extra inch to the front and back pattern pieces since her width measurements fit the Large best but her height would put her in an XL.   With MG's striped swimsuit, I added an inch but only to the front pattern piece as I wanted the neckline to sit a little higher up than it did on the initial XS swimsuit I sewed:

Kwik Sew 3785, XS no adjustments

Kwik Sew nicely provides you with lines if you need to shorten/lengthen the pattern. I used the top line for my adjustments since it's the overall length that I wanted longer.

Fabrics:  I've mainly used Chez Ami Knit Tactel fabric.  I like the way that it feels though I've run into some fading issues with the pink/white polka dot fabric that was my initial order.  The other prints I have seem to be doing okay. 

My lining fabric is from Jo-Ann's.  I ended up with 2 types.  One is almost like a heavy pantyhose and the other is similar to swimsuit fabric.  I prefer the latter as it seems more durable.  I usually line the fronts on the suits.  If I'm making a 2 piece, I completely line the bottoms and line the front of the bikini/tankini top.  That's my preference.  You don't have to line swimsuits but I've found that in our case, they hold up better if they're lined.  You also don't have to buy separate lining fabric, you could use the fabric that you chose for the swimsuit.

Notions:  I use polyester thread.  I also buy the swimwear elastic.  I've used clear elastic (Lastin) before but the girls complained that the edges were sharp. 

Sewing tips:  Make sure you use a needle for knits, either a ball point or stretch.  I like to lighten the pressure of my presser foot from a 6 to around a 3 so that the fabric isn't being over stretched while I'm sewing.  I typically baste the lining to my main fabric so it stays together when sewing the seams.  I double stitch my seams for peace of mind with a Tricot/Lightning stitch and a Seam/Overedge stitch. 

#6 Tricot/Lightning stitch

#22 Seam/Overedge stitch

When applying elastic, I use a 3 step zigzag stitch.  I place the elastic close to the edge of the fabric on the wrong side and sew.

 I keep the fabric/elastic on the inside of my presser foot when initially applying the elastic

I then fold my elastic to the inside and sew using the 3 step zig zag again, stretching the fabric/elastic slightly.  I place the outer edge just to the outside of my presser foot so that the stitches are more to the inside.  This keeps the elastic from rolling out.  You can also use a double needle which is what I did with the tankinis.  Keep in mind if you use a double needle, you'll have to sew with the right side up.

And here's what it looks like after the elastic is applied...

Ta Da!  The finished swimsuit!

KS 3785, XS with an extra inch in front panel

More Swimsuits from the past 2 years...

2009:  MG on the right in Ottobre Design 03/09 #38 size 98

2009:  My first ever attempt at sewing a swimsuit Ottobre Design 02/04 #20, size 92

2011:  K in KS 3785 and MG in Ottobre Design 03/09 #38 and #39

2010:  Ottobre Design 02/04 #20 size 98

2010:  Ottobre Design 03/09 Gilda Bikini size 134

2011:  BK on left in Ottobre Design 03/09 #38 size 104

Are you ready for some (Packer) Football?

I'd forgotten what a quick project the Bucket Hat from Little Things to Sew is.  I sewed the sides and top together on Wednesday when I had a few moments to spare and finished the hat Thursday night in about 1/2 an hour!

While I was hand sewing the last little bit, P asked with a voice full of hope if the hat was for him.  It was with great pleasure that I told him yes.  He was even keen to have his picture taken which is not a common situation!  Of course, he had to put on his Aaron Rodgers jersey and leave his pj shorts on to get the total Packer's look.

I used white denim for the main fabric and the left over GB Packer fabric from his pj shorts for the reverse side.  I'm not even sure when I made those...a year ago?  The white side out will be for our Gilligan Halloween costume.  I made the largest size hat and did 1/4 inch seams instead of 1/2 inch to make sure it would be big enough for P.  

And of course, every post needs a slightly goofy picture.   He was having fun!

Seahorse Seahorse

We started summer with a drawer full of swimsuits for the little girls.  As you saw here, we were running low on wearable suits!   I let the littles look through my swimsuit fabric stash and pick what they wanted for their next swimsuits. 

BK chose a new addition to my stash courtesy of an order from The Fabric Fairy.  I used Ottobre Design 03/09 #38 and cut it into a tankini top and bikini bottoms.  She really wanted a one piece but 2 pieces are easier on me when BK needs to use the potty.  I sandwiched clear elastic in the straps because I noticed that the straps on the other tankini tops I made were starting to get stretched out.

BK is all ready to hit the beach again!

I'm also finally getting started on August's Little Things to Sew sewalong project...another bucket hat. 

I dithered about doing the hat.  No one really needed one and I was about ready to skip August's project and start in on September's when I overheard the kids discussing Halloween costumes.  Turns out a white bucket hat just might be needed!  Any guesses as to what the kids would like to dress up as?  I'll give you a hint...they would be 4 different cast members from a tv show that aired for only 3 years in the sixties.

I'm using the Green Bay Packer's fabric leftover from pj shorts for the lining or reverse side.  The hat will be the perfect accessory with P's #12 jersey on gamedays!

Surfer Girl(s)

Little surfer, little one

Made my heart come all undone

Do you love me, do you surfer girl?

 

Surfer girl, my little surfer girl

I have watched you on the shore

Standing by the oceans roar

Do you love me, do you surfer girl?

Surfer girl, surfer girl

We could ride the surf together

*Photos from our trip to the beach this morning interspersed with lyrics from "Surfer Girl" by the Beach Boys

3 Swimsuits Down for the Count

The kids have been having a blast going from lake to waterpark to beach but the girls' swimsuits are barely hanging on!

They have each managed to render a swimsuit unwearable.  However, only one was a suit I made.

First up, K's one piece from Old Navy. 

The swimsuit fabric is all stretched out and faded...especially in the rear.  See how the fabric is not pulled up tight like it should be?  I'm saving this swimsuit to cut up and use as a pattern base.

Next, the bottoms to one of the Ottobre Tankinis.

The dimples in the fabric are where the spandex has all but disappeared.  Not only is it not stretchy anymore, it's becoming see through.

Lastly, another Old Navy swimsuit. 

It was already faded from a mellow orange to this yellowy-organgey shade.  Then BK wore it to the beach and rolled around in the shorebreak and sand.  The dark specks are sand that has worked it's way into the fabric.  Trust me...it's not coming out no matter whatcha do.

Plus, there was a ton of sand that worked it's way between the front lining and the swimsuit fabric.  I knew we were in trouble when we got ready to go and the crotch of BK's suit was drooping awfully low. 

Yucky!

I guess new swimsuits need to go back onto the to-sew list. 

In actual sewing news, I finished a pair of Oliver + S shorts that have been cut out since early July.

I used Carolina Chambray in black (even though it looks blue in the picture).  MG was mucho happy with the shorts and wanted to keep wearing them last night after I had her try them on to adjust the elastic in the waist.  This morning the first thing out of her mouth was, "Where are the new shorts?  I want to wear them!"  It always feels good to hear that.:)

4 more weeks of summer vacation and then it's back to school and time to think about fall/winter sewing. 

Burdastyle Magazine #101 06-2011

  I purchased the 06/2011 issue of Burdastyle Magazine for the hooded shirt which was the basis for MG's coverup .  There were a few other patterns that interested me for the kids and a couple that I thought would be nice for me.  My first attempt for myself the V-neck Blouse:

I'm guilty of closing my eyes just like K

I used cotton gauze fabric from fabric.com.  As much as I've griped about sewing with cotton gauze, it's really comfortable to wear.  And it's the perfect weight for hot, humid summer days. 

The pattern went together pretty well.  I used a size 38 even though my bust measurement puts me at a 40.  I'm not too fond of billowy tops and I figured that there would be plenty of ease even if I cut a size smaller...there was.:)  The instructions for the neckline threw me a bit so I ended up winging it.  I did find clearer instructions here but I opted to skip the jersey strip.   eta:  I also didn't cut the top on the bias (which you're supposed to).